Cartier Santos Galbée Ref. 1564 in Steel, circa 2000

Launched in 1987, the Santos Galbée represents the modern evolution of the legendary Santos created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This steel reference 1564 features curved lines that harmoniously and comfortably fit the wrist.
The example we have on offer is remarkably well preserved. The 29 mm x 41 mm steel case retains its original finishes with clean alternations between brushed/satin-finished and mirror-polished matte surfaces. The white dial, often patinated on this model, is presented here in excellent condition, with its perfectly preserved blue Roman numerals and blued-steel sword hands. The octagonal crown features its intact blue synthetic spinel cabochon. The integrated steel bracelet, with its characteristic exposed screws – a direct legacy of the 1904 design – shows no looseness and articulates easily. The recently serviced Cartier caliber 87 quartz movement runs perfectly.
This Santos Galbée strikes the perfect balance between the historical heritage of the first great men's wristwatch and the modernity of the 1980s and 1990s. Presented here in its configuration with blue indexes and preserved in excellent condition, it is a particularly desirable example for any enthusiast.

In 1904, Louis Cartier revolutionized watchmaking by creating for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont what would become one of the first men's wristwatches in history. The famous Brazilian aviator, a pioneer of European aviation, needed to check the time while keeping his hands on the controls of his airplanes. This square watch with exposed screws, worn during his historic flights, became a watch design icon.

Following the success of the Santos relaunched in 1978 with its characteristic bracelet extending the case, mixing steel and gold, Cartier presented the Santos Galbée in 1987. This new interpretation, whose name perfectly describes the softened lines of the case which now fit the wrist fluidly, modernizes the design and makes it more comfortable, without betraying its original DNA.

The reference 1564 that we are pleased to offer is part of the “golden period” of the Santos Galbée. Produced in much smaller quantities in this all-steel configuration, it embodies the elegant accessibility that Cartier sought to attract a new generation of collectors in the 1990s and 2000s. The 29 mm x 41 mm case retains all the Santos codes: the eight visible screws on the bezel – reminiscent of the rivets used in the nascent aviation industry –, the integrated bracelet with its own decorative screws, and of course the octagonal crown adorned with its characteristic blue cabochon.

The example we are offering is distinguished by its very well-preserved white dial with painted blue Roman numerals, while Cartier dials from this period frequently suffer from discoloration or stains due to humidity; here, nothing of the sort. The blued steel sword hands retain their original luster and uniform color.

The surfaces of the case and bracelet alternate between satin/brushed and polished/mirror-polished finishes, creating a sophisticated play of light. This alternation, difficult to maintain after successive polishings, is perfectly preserved here, suggesting meticulous maintenance throughout the life of the watch. The Cartier caliber 87 quartz movement has undergone a complete service and is in perfect working order.

This Santos Galbée ref. 1564 bears witness to a pivotal era in Cartier's history. It represents the successful transition from the Maison's century-old heritage to its necessary modernization in the face of the challenges of the late 20th-century watchmaking market. In our view, this piece is the perfect expression of what Cartier has always done best: creating watches that transcend fashion to become timeless classics, as relevant today as when they were first created.

This Cartier Santos Galbée reference 1564 in steel is preserved in very good overall condition.
The 29 mm x 41 mm steel case retains its original finishes, with clear alternations between brushed/satin matte and mirror-polished surfaces.
The white dial, often patinated on this model, is presented here in excellent condition, with its perfectly preserved blue Roman numerals and its blued steel sword hands.
The octagonal crown features its intact blue synthetic spinel cabochon.
The integrated steel bracelet, with its characteristic visible screws – a direct legacy of the 1904 design – shows no stretch and articulates easily.
The recently serviced Cartier caliber 87 quartz movement functions perfectly.

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