Cartier Tank Fabergé/Square Incurvée with “Paris Dial”, Ref. 78101 in Yellow Gold, circa 1973

In 1973, Cartier launched the Louis Cartier Collection: twelve gold models united under a single visual identity. The Fabergé, also known as the "Square Incurvée," is one of these original models. Its tonneau-shaped case with beveled corners gives the watch a strong presence while maintaining the harmonious proportions so dear to the Maison.
This example of reference 78101 dates from the beginning of production, circa 1973, as evidenced by its dial signed "PARIS"—the most sought-after version—with a "flat top A" and no secret signature. The 26 x 32.5 mm 18-carat yellow gold case is in excellent condition: satin-finished surfaces, defined edges, and a caseback that has most likely never been polished, with clear and deep hallmarks.
It is presented with its original 18-carat yellow gold Cartier folding clasp on a new chocolate alligator Amplitude° strap. Its movement, Cartier caliber 78-1, has been serviced by an experienced watchmaker. Parisian elegance from the 1970s, suitable for both men's and women's wrists!

In 1973, Cartier marked a turning point in its watchmaking history. The Parisian house launched the Louis Cartier Collection: twelve gold models, powered by Swiss hand-wound mechanical calibers, united under a single visual identity – white dials, black Roman numerals, sword hands, and crowns set with sapphire cabochons. Among these creations were reinterpretations of historical models such as the Tank and the Santos-Dumont, as well as new forms showcasing Cartier's creative audacity, including the Ceinture, the Gondoles, and the Cristallor.

The Fabergé – sometimes called the “Square Incurvée” (Chaille and Cologni, The Cartier Collection: Timepieces, 2006) – is one of these original models. Its silhouette is immediately recognizable: a tonneau-shaped case with rounded corners, which give the watch a strong presence on the wrist while maintaining the harmonious proportions so dear to the Maison. The name “Fabergé” evokes the world of Russian imperial eggs – a nod to the history of European luxury that Cartier cherishes.

The example we are offering, reference 78101, dates from the beginning of production, circa 1973, as evidenced by the presence of a dial signed "PARIS" at 6 o'clock – the most sought-after version – with a "flat top A" in "CARTIER," and without the secret signature at 7 o'clock, introduced around 1975. The 26 x 32.5 mm 18-carat yellow gold case is preserved in excellent condition, with satin-finished surfaces exhibiting a warm patina consistent with the watch's age and well-defined edges. The case back, most likely never polished since this watch left Cartier's workshops over half a century ago, bears the gold hallmark, reference number, and serial number, all perfectly legible, clear, and deep. The crown is set with the characteristic blue sapphire cabochon.

The white dial displays the hallmarks of the Louis Cartier Collection: black Roman numerals arranged in the famous "railroad" pattern forming an inner frame, the "CARTIER" signature in the center, and "PARIS" at the bottom. The blue sword hands complete this ensemble of quintessential Parisian elegance.

This Fabergé is presented with its original 18-karat yellow gold Cartier folding clasp, fitted with a new Amplitude° matte chocolate alligator strap, and accompanied by a vintage Must de Cartier red case. The hand-wound caliber 78-1 has been fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker and is running to the strictest tolerances.

A Cartier Fabergé “Paris” in very good condition, with its original folding clasp: Parisian elegance from the 1970s, as modern as ever, and suitable for both men's and women's wrists.

This Cartier “Tank Fabergé/Square Incurvée” reference 78101 is presented in excellent overall condition.
The yellow gold tonneau-shaped case with rounded corners retains its original proportions and finishes, notably on the case back which alternates circular and vertical satin finishing, and on which all the engravings – of the reference number and serial number, as well as the gold hallmark – are perfectly legible, deep and clear.
The beaded winding crown, set with the characteristic blue cabochon, is in excellent condition.
The original, first-generation white dial features the "PARIS" marking at 6 o'clock and typography characteristic of early production. Minor dust and slight discoloration are visible with a loupe, but the dial remains in excellent overall condition for its age, without any distracting cracks or chips.
The vintage Cartier 18-carat gold folding clasp is in excellent condition.
The custom-made Amplitude° strap in matte chocolate alligator leather is new.
The self-winding mechanical movement, Cartier calibre 78-1 based on ETA 2512-1, has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates within the strictest tolerances.
An excellent example!

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