Cartier Tank Must Mécanique GM 6 “Wood/Turtle/Tortoiseshell Dial”

The Tank Must embodies Cartier's strategic genius in the late 1970s. Created to democratize access to the brand without compromising its prestige, this line introduced bold dials that have now become sought-after collector's items.
Our example's dial, variously nicknamed the "Turtle", "Tortoiseshell", or "Wood", represents one of the most desirable variations. Its marbled, golden-brown patterns, reminiscent of tortoiseshell or precious wood, create a superb visual depth. This surface's texture and color change subtly depending on the angle and the light—shifting from light chocolate to dark brown, sometimes almost black.
The Large Model vermeil case (23 × 30 mm) offers ideal proportions, inherited from the original Tank Louis Cartier, and today equally suited to both men's and women's wrists. The hand-wound mechanical movement has undergone a complete overhaul by an experienced watchmaker and operates according to the strictest tolerances. The golden sword hands and blue cabochon recall the most classic Cartier design cues.
We paired this Tank with a new hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in brown grained leather, echoing the color of the dial, and completed with a gold-plated Cartier pin buckle – in our eyes, a stunning effect!
This Tank Must “Tortoise Shell” represents the perfect balance between accessibility and desirability – an entry piece into the vintage Cartier universe that has lost none of its sophisticated charm.

The Must de Cartier line, launched in 1977 under the leadership of Alain-Dominique Perrin and Robert Hocq, represented a strategic turning point for the Parisian house. In the midst of the quartz crisis, Cartier decided to create a more accessible collection without sacrificing its DNA—a bold gamble that would allow a new generation to discover the world of Rue de la Paix.

The dial, nicknamed "Turtle," "Tortoiseshell," or "Wood"—imitating wood or tortoiseshell—that adorns this example is one of the most sought-after variations among enthusiasts. This finish creates a unique marbled pattern reminiscent of natural tortoiseshell. Each dial has variations, making each piece, de facto, unique.

The vermeil case (solid silver plated with 20 microns of gold) represents an ingenious solution for maintaining the allure of yellow gold while controlling costs. The so-called “Large Model” (GM, Grand Modèle or Grande Taille in French) size of 23 × 30 mm follows the exact proportions of the historic Tank Louis Cartier, ensuring the timeless elegance that is the signature of the collection.

Over the years, many dials have developed cracks, resulting in what some call the "spider dial" effect. This characteristic is, in our view, more of a defect than a quality – and we are therefore pleased to present our example with a perfect, chip-free dial.

The hand-wound mechanical movement, based on the ETA 2512-1 caliber, is proven and reliable. It is perfectly suited to the Tank's slim profile. The one in our example has undergone a complete overhaul by an experienced watchmaker and operates according to the strictest tolerances.

We paired this Tank with a new hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in brown grained leather, echoing the color of the dial, and completed with a gold-plated Cartier pin buckle – in our eyes, a stunning effect!

Today, vintage Tank Must watches with special dials are enjoying increasing popularity. They represent an ideal entry point into the world of vintage Cartier – less expensive than a solid gold Tank Louis Cartier, but with their own unique charm and originality. An excellent example!

This Cartier Tank Must, known as the "Grande Taille", is preserved in excellent aesthetic condition, featuring a dial collectors have nicknamed the "Tortoiseshell" or "Wood" variant, in perfect condition, and a mineral glass that has been replaced anew, without any cracks or scratches. The golden sword hands present, in full light, slight surface oxidation that does not affect readability in any way.
The fluted winding crown is set with a blue cabochon in very good condition.
Micro-surface scratches may be present on the case, preserved in superb overall condition, with legible and clear engravings on the back.
The hand-wound mechanical movement has been fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker and operates to the strictest tolerances.
The hand-sewn Amplitude° strap in brown/chocolate grained leather is new, and completed with a Cartier gold-plated pin buckle, in perfect condition.

All the watches available on our website have been meticulously inspected by our team of experts to guarantee their authenticity and originality.

All our watches are systematically checked for mechanical function and precision, and undergo a complete overhaul if necessary.

Every watch sold is covered by a two-year warranty.

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