Launched in 1957 as a chronograph for racing drivers, the Omega Speedmaster was, seven years later, pre-selected by NASA as part of the trials aimed at equipping the future astronauts of the Apollo programme. Subjected to a battery of extreme tests – heat, cold, humidity, shock, vacuum, vibration, acceleration, deceleration – it was the only candidate to pass them all, and received on 1 June 1965 the official qualification “Flight-Qualified for All Manned Space Missions”. On 21 July 1969, when Buzz Aldrin set foot on the Moon in the wake of Neil Armstrong (who had left his own Speedmaster in the lunar module as a replacement for a defective onboard clock), he was wearing on his wrist his Speedmaster ST 105.012 with caliber 321 – officially “the first watch worn on the Moon”, an inscription that would, from 1970 onwards, be engraved on the caseback of every Speedmaster Professional. The Speedmaster would also rescue the Apollo 13 mission in 1970: it was used to time the critical burns of the return engines that brought the crew safely back to Earth. Continuously produced since 1957, it is without doubt one of the most iconic pieces of modern Swiss watchmaking.
In 1968, the historic caliber 321 gave way to the Omega caliber 861 – manually wound, 17 jewels then 18 from 1992, 21,600 vibrations per hour – which would power the Moonwatch for nearly thirty years. The model reference, ST 145.022, remained unchanged until 1988, when Omega overhauled its nomenclature and renamed it 3590.50. Alongside this solid-back 3590.50, Omega introduced the 3592.50 with sapphire caseback, allowing the enthusiast to admire the movement and accordingly fitted with a decorated and presentation-finished variant: the caliber 863, drawn from the same family as the 861. The 3590.50 and 3592.50 would be produced in parallel until 1996/1997, before being replaced respectively by the 3570.50 and 3572.50, fitted with the calibers 1861 and 1863. The case, dial and mission remain strictly identical: the 3590.50 continues, indeed, to be engraved “145.022” inside the caseback, while the 3592.50 substitutes for this internal engraving the sapphire back that reveals the mechanics. Canonical specifications: a 42 mm steel case, a matte black-anthracite dial with three sub-counters, a fixed bezel with a black tachymeter scale, an acrylic crystal known as “Hesalite” on top – mandated by NASA to prevent shattering in the event of impact in zero gravity – and round pushers and a knurled, non-screw-down crown.
The example we are pleased to offer dates from circa 1997 (serial number 4834xxxx) and presents in very fine overall condition. The steel case is impeccable, with crisp delineations between the matte satin/brushed and glossy/mirror-polished surfaces, the signature of the Speedmaster design. The superb black dial is equally fine: the original luminous material, tritium-based (“T SWISS MADE T” at 6 o’clock), on the painted baton hour markers and on the hands, has developed a warm, uniform and particularly attractive patina. The sapphire caseback reveals the caliber 863 in its yellow finish and 18-jewel configuration. It has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs perfectly. The watch is delivered on its original Omega steel bracelet reference 1499 with solid 842 end links, also very well preserved.
For anyone seeking to acquire a neo-vintage Moonwatch, “pre-1861” – the last iteration to carry the mechanics of the 861 family directly inherited from the Apollo era, in an intact case and with an authentic, warm patina, with the added rare pleasure of permanently admiring the caliber through the sapphire caseback – this 3592.50 from circa 1997 is, in our eyes, a particularly accomplished reading of the reference. A watch that can be worn daily, and which bears on its caseback the single most singular sentence in watchmaking: “The First Watch Worn On The Moon”.
