Audemars Piguet “Mini Cobra” Ref. 14585BC in White Gold and Diamonds, circa 1991

In the early 1970s, just as the Royal Oak was about to impose steel, Audemars Piguet was cultivating an entirely different art: that of gold wristwatches with integrated bracelets. The “Cobra” family is its most celebrated expression – its scale-like texture, the work of Geneva bracelet maker Roland-Gilbert Gaschen, earned it its moniker; at the time, the bracelet alone cost around 10,000 Swiss francs, more than twice the price of a new Royal Oak. The “Mini Cobra” translates this concept into a compact cushion format: our reference 14585BC in 18-carat white gold (27 × 32 mm), produced around 1991, houses Audemars Piguet caliber 2080, a manual-winding mechanical movement just 2 mm thick.
The example we are delighted to offer is preserved in excellent overall condition. The dark blue dial bears the applied “AP” monogram and diamond-set hour markers, matched by hands fully paved with diamonds – a rare execution, spectacular in the light. The white gold plays on the alternation of mirror-polished and finely striated links; the jewellery clasp is stamped with the AP monogram. The movement has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs perfectly. We present this watch with its original tag and our Steel Warranty Card.
At the crossroads of watchmaking and goldsmithing, equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists, this “Mini Cobra” comes in what is, in our view, its most desirable configuration – white gold, navy blue dial, small diamonds. This is a rare opportunity.

In the early 1970s, just as the Royal Oak was about to impose steel, Audemars Piguet was cultivating an entirely different art: that of gold wristwatches with integrated bracelets, true works of goldsmithing in which the case merges into a sculpted mesh. The “Cobra” family, born at the very start of the decade with the round reference 5403, is its most celebrated expression – its bracelet with a scale-like texture, which ripples and catches the light like a snake’s skin, earned it its moniker among collectors.

These bracelets came from the Geneva workshop of Roland-Gilbert Gaschen – his “GRG” hallmark is stamped on the clasp – one of Audemars Piguet’s three appointed bracelet makers, alongside Gay Frères (the steel bracelets of the Royal Oak) and Jean-Pierre Ecoffey. Gaschen had made a speciality of woven meshes in precious metals, of a rare three-dimensional depth: the interlaced “rice-grain” mesh of the Cobra tolerated not the slightest imprecision in soldering or polishing. Such work came at a price – at the time, the bracelet of a Cobra alone cost around 10,000 Swiss francs, when a complete new Royal Oak was priced at around 4,000 francs.

The “Mini Cobra” translates this concept into a compact cushion format. Our reference 14585BC, in 18-carat white gold (750 ‰), measures 27 × 32 mm; the “D” prefix of its case number places its production around 1991. It houses Audemars Piguet caliber 2080, a manual-winding mechanical movement just 2 mm thick, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

The example we are delighted to offer is preserved in excellent overall condition. The dark blue dial bears the applied “AP” monogram at 12 o’clock and diamond-set hour markers – matched by hands themselves fully paved with diamonds, a rare execution, spectacular in the light. The white gold, of remarkable brilliance, plays on the alternation of mirror-polished and finely striated links; the bracelet articulates perfectly and closes with a jewellery clasp stamped with the AP monogram. The movement has undergone a full service by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances. We present this watch with its original tag, stating its reference and serial number, and our Steel Warranty Card.

At the crossroads of watchmaking and goldsmithing, the “Mini Cobra” remains one of Audemars Piguet’s most emblematic creations. Clearly unisex – it was in fact often worn by men – it is equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists. This is a rare opportunity to acquire an example in what is, in our view, the most desirable configuration (white gold, navy blue dial, small diamonds), and in perfect condition at that.

This Audemars Piguet known as the “Mini Cobra” is preserved in superb overall condition, close to new.
The dark blue dial is perfect, free of scratches, and displays a strictly uniform hue. The applied “AP” monogram, the diamond-set hour markers and the paved hands are intact; not a single stone has moved in its setting.
The white gold cushion case retains its original proportions and finishes. The crystal shows no distracting scratches. The serial number engraving on the reverse of the caseback is perfectly crisp.
The integrated bracelet is remarkable: the mesh shows neither deformation nor stretch, articulates perfectly, and the alternation of mirror-polished and finely striated links has remained crisp. The jewellery clasp, stamped with the AP monogram, clicks shut firmly; its markings and hallmarks are perfectly legible.
The manual-winding mechanical movement has undergone a full service by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances.
An ideal example, in near-new condition – of a kind one rarely comes across.

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