Cartier Santos Carrée GM Ref. 2961 in Steel and Yellow Gold, circa 1980

In 1978, in the midst of the quartz crisis, Cartier relaunched its legendary Santos, created in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and widely regarded as the first wristwatch designed for a man. Under the impetus of Alain-Dominique Perrin, the house dared to use steel, as well as a still unusual combination of steel and yellow gold, and gave the Santos an integrated bracelet whose visible gold screws echo those of the bezel. The Santos became one of the emblematic watches of the 1980s. When the Santos Galbée softened its lines in 1987, the original design – retrospectively named “Santos Carrée” – had been produced for only nine years. Reference 2961, here in the large model known as “GM” (29 × 41 mm), is its automatic version in steel and yellow gold, powered by the Cartier caliber 077.
The example we have the pleasure of offering is preserved in excellent overall condition. Whereas the dials of the Santos 2960/2961 often yellow over the years, the original “SWISS” dial here is a brilliant white, set off by blued steel sword-shaped hands. The case retains its original proportions and finishes, with particularly precise chamfers; the bracelet, never restored, articulates perfectly. The movement has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers, and runs perfectly. We present this watch with its red Cartier Santos box and our Steel Warranty Card.
A superb example of the pure 1978 design, ideal for everyday wear as well as for the most elegant occasions, and equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists.

In 1904, Louis Cartier, together with master watchmaker Edmond Jaeger, designed a wristwatch intended for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wished to be able to read the time without letting go of the controls of his aircraft. Widely regarded as the first wristwatch designed for a man – and the first pilot’s watch – the Santos was offered to other Cartier clients in 1911. Its square case with softened corners and its bezel with visible screws, inspired by the metal constructions of its time, would remain part of its design ever after.

In 1978, in the midst of the quartz crisis, Cartier relaunched the model under the name “Santos de Cartier”. Under the impetus of Alain-Dominique Perrin, the house dared to use steel – which it had virtually never worked with – as well as a still unusual combination of steel and yellow gold, and gave the Santos an integrated bracelet whose visible gold screws echo those of the bezel. A few years after Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (1972) and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus (1976), Cartier thus entered the era of sport-chic with a language all its own. The success was considerable: the Santos became one of the emblematic watches of the 1980s, right up to the wrist of Gordon Gekko in Wall Street (1987) – his being in solid gold.

It was precisely in 1987 that the Santos Galbée came to soften the model’s lines. The original 1978 design, retrospectively named “Carrée”, was thus produced for only nine years – and it is this design that collectors seek today, for the crispness of its edges. Reference 2961, here in the large model known as “GM” (29 × 41 mm), is its automatic version in steel and yellow gold: it houses the Cartier caliber 077, built on an ETA 2671 base, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a date window at 3 o’clock.

The example we have the pleasure of offering is preserved in excellent overall condition. The dials of the Santos 2960/2961 often yellow or deteriorate over the years. Not so here: the original “SWISS” dial, with its railway minute track and painted black Roman numerals – the true stylistic signature of Cartier watches – is a brilliant white, free of scratches or paint flaking. The blued steel sword-shaped hands and the original date disc are equally fine. The steel case retains its original proportions and finishes, alternating matte brushed/satin and bright mirror-polished surfaces, with particularly precise chamfers; the engravings on the outside of the caseback, including the serial number, are perfectly legible. The blue cabochon of the winding crown is intact. The automatic mechanical movement has undergone a complete service by one of our experienced watchmakers, and runs to the strictest tolerances. Finally, the bracelet shows no weaknesses, has never been restored and articulates perfectly – the yellow gold screws are mirror-polished, while the steel links are satin/brushed, as befits a steel and gold Santos. We present this watch with its red Cartier Santos box and our Steel Warranty Card.

Nearly fifty years after the 1978 relaunch, the Santos has established itself as one of the great watch designs of the 20th century. Preserved in a condition that has become hard to find, this example is ideal for everyday wear as well as for the most elegant occasions, and is equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists.

This Cartier Santos Carrée is preserved in excellent overall condition.
The original “SWISS” dial, free of scratches or paint flaking, is a brilliant white, with no trace of the yellowing or deterioration so often seen on the Santos 2960/2961. The blued steel sword-shaped hands are in very good condition. The date disc is original, and in perfect condition.
The steel case, preserved in very fine overall condition, retains its original proportions and finishes, alternating matte/brushed and bright surfaces. The chamfers are particularly precise. The engravings on the back of the caseback are perfectly legible, including the serial number.
The blue cabochon of the winding crown is intact.
The automatic mechanical movement has undergone a complete service by one of our experienced watchmakers, and runs to the strictest tolerances.
The bracelet shows no weaknesses, has never been restored, and articulates perfectly. The yellow gold screws are mirror-polished, while the steel links are satin/brushed – as befits a steel and gold Santos.
An ideal example.

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