Cartier Tank Must Mécanique GM 6 “Wood/Turtle/Tortoiseshell Dial”

The Tank Must embodies Cartier’s strategic genius at the end of the 1970s. Created to broaden access to the house without compromising its prestige, this line introduced bold dials that are now becoming sought-after collector’s pieces.
The dial of this example, variously nicknamed “Turtle”, “Tortoiseshell” or “Wood Dial”, represents one of the most desirable variations. Its marbled brown patterns, evoking tortoiseshell or precious wood, create superb visual depth. The surface shifts subtly with the angle and the light – ranging from light chocolate to dark brown, sometimes almost black.
The vermeil Grand Modèle case (23 × 30 mm) offers ideal proportions, inherited from the original Tank Louis Cartier, and today equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists. The manual-winding mechanical movement has undergone a full service by an experienced watchmaker and runs within the strictest tolerances. The gilt sword-shaped hands and the blue cabochon recall Cartier’s most classic codes.
We have paired this Tank with a new hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in cognac lizard, echoing the hue of the dial, and completed it with a yellow-gold-plated pin buckle – to our eyes, a most striking effect!
This Tank Must “Tortoiseshell” represents the perfect balance between accessibility and desirability – an entry point into the world of vintage Cartier that has lost none of its sophisticated charm.

Cartier’s Must watch line, launched in 1977 under the impetus of Alain-Dominique Perrin and Robert Hocq, marked a major strategic turning point for the house. In the midst of the quartz crisis, Cartier decided to create a more accessible collection without sacrificing its DNA – a bold gamble that would allow a new generation to discover the world of the Rue de la Paix.

The dial variously nicknamed “Turtle”, “Tortoiseshell” or “Wood Dial” – imitating, as the names suggest, wood or tortoiseshell – that adorns this example is among the variations most sought after by enthusiasts. This finish creates a unique marbled pattern reminiscent of natural tortoiseshell. Each dial shows variations, making every piece de facto unique.

The vermeil case (solid silver plated with 20 microns of yellow gold) is an ingenious solution for retaining the lustre of gold while keeping costs under control. The so-called “Grand Modèle” (GM) size of 23 × 30 mm reproduces the exact proportions of the historic Tank Louis Cartier, ensuring the timeless elegance that is the signature of the collection.

The manual-winding mechanical movement, based on the ETA 2512-1 caliber, is proven and reliable. It is perfectly suited to the Tank’s slim profile. The one in our example has undergone a full service by an experienced watchmaker and runs within the strictest tolerances.

We have paired this Tank with a new hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in cognac lizard, echoing the hue of the dial, and completed it with a yellow-gold-plated pin buckle – to our eyes, a most striking effect!

Today, vintage Tank Musts with special dials are enjoying growing recognition. They represent an ideal gateway into the world of vintage Cartier – less costly than a solid gold Tank Louis Cartier, yet endowed with a charm and originality all their own. An excellent example!

This Cartier Tank Must known as the “Grand Modèle” is preserved in excellent cosmetic condition, with a dial nicknamed “Tortoiseshell” or “Wood” and a newly replaced mineral crystal, free of any cracks or scratches. Under bright light, the dial shows micro-crazing that in no way affects legibility or the pleasure of wearing it.
The fluted winding crown is set with a blue cabochon in very good condition.
The case is preserved in superb overall condition, with legible, crisp engravings on the back and no loss of plating.
The manual-winding mechanical movement has been fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker and runs within the strictest tolerances.
The hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in cognac lizard is new, and is complemented by a yellow-gold-plated pin buckle, likewise in perfect condition.

All the watches available on our website have been meticulously inspected by our team of experts to guarantee their authenticity and originality.

All our watches are systematically checked for mechanical function and precision, and undergo a complete overhaul if necessary.

Every watch sold is covered by a two-year warranty.

Find out more about The Amplitude° Guarantee.

We ship all watches ordered on our website free of charge worldwide.

Any customs or import duties/taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Amplitude uses several specialized and secure carriers, depending on the destination of each parcel and its contents (Malca Amit, Ferrari, FedEx, etc.).

We are used to shipping watches all over the world, including to Europe, the United States and Asia. Find out more about Shipping & Deliveries at Amplitude.