Cartier Tank Normale Ref. 78093 in Yellow Gold, circa 1975 – “PARIS” Dial

In 1917, in the midst of the Great War, Louis Cartier designed a watch that broke with everything watchmaking was producing at the time, inspired, it is said, by the Renault FT light tank seen from above, its brancards evoking the tracks. A prototype was presented to General Pershing in 1918 and sales began in 1919: the Tank would never again leave the catalogue. Long a rarity – fewer than forty-four examples a year at Cartier Paris between 1919 and 1960 – the original came to be known as the “Tank Normale” as its variations emerged. From the wrists of Jackie Kennedy to those of Andy Warhol, it established itself as the quintessential shaped watch.
Our example, a Tank Normale “Lady” ref. 78093 in 18-carat yellow gold produced circa 1975, features a 20 x 27.5 mm case with satin-finished brancards and polished bevels, and an original white dial with black painted Roman numerals, enclosed by a railway minute track and topped by blued steel sword-shaped hands. The original crown is set with its faceted blue cabochon, in excellent condition – which is far from the rule; the crystal, often found scratched, has been newly recut by an exceptional craftswoman. Inside beats the manual-winding Cartier caliber 78-1. The watch has undergone a full service by one of our experienced watchmakers.
It is presented on a new brown lizard strap fastened by a yellow-gold-plated pin buckle, and accompanied by a vintage red and gold Cartier box, as well as our Steel Warranty Card.
The first of the shaped watches and arguably the purest, the Tank has outlasted fashions for more than a century without its design ageing a day. In this Parisian execution in yellow gold, in the so-called “Lady” size, it embodies elegance according to Cartier – a watch to wear every day, and to pass on one day.

In 1917, as the Great War dragged on, Louis Cartier designed a watch that broke with everything watchmaking was producing at the time. It is said that he drew inspiration from a new machine that had appeared at the front: the Renault FT light tank, whose silhouette seen from above is found in its entirety in the watch – the vertical brancards representing the tracks, the case the hull. Named the “Tank”, it turned its back on the round watches of its day: straight lines, sharp angles, Roman numerals, railway minute track, blued steel sword-shaped hands and a blue stone on the crown. The first prototype was presented in 1918 to General Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Forces; sales began in 1919 – with only six examples in the first year.

Against all expectations, the Tank would never again leave the catalogue – but it long remained a rarity: between 1919 and 1960, Cartier Paris produced only 1,803 examples, fewer than forty-four a year. As its variations emerged – the Cintrée in 1921, the Chinoise in 1922 – the original was retrospectively named the “Tank Normale”. From the wrists of Jackie Kennedy to those of Andy Warhol or Yves Saint Laurent, it established itself over the century as the quintessential shaped watch – and, for many, as the most elegant of all watches.

The 1970s opened a singular chapter in this story. The three Cartier houses in Paris, London and New York, hitherto separate, were reunited. It was also the moment when the brand relaunched itself: in 1972, in tribute to its creator, it unveiled the Louis Cartier collection – and the gold Tanks of those years, produced in small series a few seasons before the tidal wave of the Must, are among the most prized by collectors.

The example we are pleased to offer, produced circa 1975 (serial no. 14xx), is a Tank Normale “Lady” ref. 78093 in 18-carat yellow gold (750 ‰), measuring 20 x 27.5 mm excluding the crown. Its satin-finished brancards with polished bevels frame an original white dial with black painted Roman numerals, enclosed by a railway minute track and topped by a pair of blued steel sword-shaped hands. The original crown is set with its faceted blue cabochon, in excellent condition – which is far from the rule; as for the crystal, often found scratched on these references, we had it newly recut by an exceptional craftswoman for perfect clarity. Inside beats the manual-winding mechanical Cartier caliber 78-1, with 17 jewels and shock protection. The watch has undergone a full service by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances.

It is presented on a new brown lizard strap fastened by a yellow-gold-plated pin buckle, and accompanied by a vintage red and gold Cartier box, as well as our Steel Warranty Card.

The first of the shaped watches and arguably the purest, the Tank has outlasted fashions for more than a century without its design ageing a day. In this Parisian execution in yellow gold, in the so-called “Lady” size that sits so perfectly on the wrist, it embodies elegance according to Cartier – a watch to wear every day, and to pass on one day.

This Cartier Tank Normale “Lady” is preserved in excellent overall condition.
The 18-carat yellow gold case, recognisable among thousands, retains its original proportions. The brancards and bevels on either side of the rectangular case are crisp, and all the engravings on the back, including the hallmarks and the watch’s individual serial number, are deep and legible. The yellow gold winding crown is original and retains its unmistakable faceted blue cabochon, in excellent condition.
The original dial is the most sought-after version for this reference. Signed “PARIS” at 6 o’clock, it is a brilliant white and shows no stains, scratches or cracking – defects that are nonetheless common on Cartier dials of the 1970s. It is topped by a pair of blued steel sword-shaped hands, in excellent condition.
The manual-winding mechanical movement, Cartier caliber 78-1 based on the ETA 2512-1, has undergone a complete overhaul by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances.
We had a new domed crystal cut by an expert craftswoman, so that the dial can be enjoyed without the slightest scratch on the crystal.
The brown lizard strap is new, and the vintage red and gold Cartier box is in perfect condition.
A superb example.

All the watches available on our website have been meticulously inspected by our team of experts to guarantee their authenticity and originality.

All our watches are systematically checked for mechanical function and precision, and undergo a complete overhaul if necessary.

Every watch sold is covered by a two-year warranty.

Find out more about The Amplitude° Guarantee.

We ship all watches ordered on our website free of charge worldwide.

Any customs or import duties/taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Amplitude uses several specialized and secure carriers, depending on the destination of each parcel and its contents (Malca Amit, Ferrari, FedEx, etc.).

We are used to shipping watches all over the world, including to Europe, the United States and Asia. Find out more about Shipping & Deliveries at Amplitude.