Superb 1963 Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 Gilt “Mark 3” – Pointed Crown Guards

In 1946, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, created Montres Tudor S.A. to offer the robustness and water-resistance that built Rolex’s reputation – Oyster case, screw-down crown, bracelets – at a more accessible price. Launched in 1954, the Tudor Submariner shares these essentials; introduced at the dawn of the 1960s, the reference 7928 – the first with crown guards, and measuring 39 mm in diameter – is above all the Submariner that truly saw service: on the wrists of US Navy combat swimmers in Vietnam as well as during the recovery of the Apollo 8 and Apollo 11 crews, and in the French Marine Nationale from the very start of its production.
The example we have the pleasure of offering belongs to the third execution, known as the “Mark 3”, with its “Pointed Crown Guards”, produced in 1963 – right in the heart of the “Gilt” era, the most sought-after period. All the dial printing is gilt, from the Tudor rose to the four-line “Submariner” inscription, on a black background with the satin finish specific to Tudor. The luminous plots have turned to a warm, even caramel, exactly matched by the gilt Mercedes hands. The case has remained very strong, with wide, well-defined chamfers on the lugs. The Tudor 390 caliber, with its rotor signed “Auto-Prince”, has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs perfectly. We present this watch on a steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with riveted links, reference 7206, end links 58, in excellent condition. It comes with our Steel Warranty Card.
More than sixty years on, the 7928 offers the case and bracelet of the Rolex Submariner, an authentic military history, and that gilt rose which Tudor would never again wear in quite the same way. Tudor collectors and vintage Rolex enthusiasts alike will recognise it at once: this is a rare opportunity.

In 1946, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, established Montres Tudor S.A. with a crystal-clear idea: to offer the robustness and water-resistance that built Rolex’s reputation – the Oyster case, the water-resistant screw-down crown, durable and comfortable bracelets – at a more accessible price, housing proven movements that were simple to maintain. The Tudor Submariners were thus launched in 1954, the same year as their Geneva cousins, and share their essentials: the caseback of our example proudly displays it, “Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva”.

Introduced at the dawn of the 1960s and produced until 1968, the reference 7928 is the first Tudor Submariner with crown guards, and made the 39 mm case standard. Above all, in the eyes of collectors, it is the Submariner that truly saw service: US Navy combat swimmers wore it in Vietnam as well as during the recovery of the Apollo 8 and Apollo 11 crews, and the French Marine Nationale adopted it from the very start of its production – it was in fact feedback from its divers that would inspire the famous “Snowflake” of 1969. Water-resistant to 200 metres and powered by the automatic caliber 390 – a Fleurier ébauche built to Rolex specifications, with a rotor modified by Rolex – it proved its reliability where few watches have gone.

The example we have the pleasure of offering belongs to the third execution of the reference, known as the “Mark 3”, which enthusiasts recognise by its “Pointed Crown Guards”. The case serial number (4000xx) indicates production in 1963 – confirmed by the II.63 marking (second quarter of 1963) inside the caseback – right in the heart of the “Gilt” era, the most sought-after period for the 7928. The dial is a superb testament to this: all its printing is gilt – the Tudor rose above “Oyster-Prince”, then the four lines “200m = 660ft / Submariner / Rotor / Self-Winding” – on a black background with a slightly satin finish, specific to Tudor and never seen at Rolex, with its minute track enclosed within a closed “chapter ring” railway track and the single “SWISS” marking at 6 o’clock.

The whole is presented in excellent overall condition. The luminous plots have turned to a warm, even caramel, exactly matched by the gilt Mercedes hands, which have taken on the same patina – this consistency between dial and hands is precisely what collectors check first. The black bezel insert has faded to a beautiful anthracite grey over the decades, and retains its luminous pearl at 12 o’clock. The case has remained very strong, with wide, well-defined lug chamfers. A domed Plexiglas crystal crowns the whole, adding to the vintage charm of the piece. The Tudor 390 caliber, with its rotor signed “Auto-Prince”, has been fully overhauled by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances.

We present this watch on a steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with riveted links, reference 7206, end links 58, in excellent condition – the correct combination for the reference – whose clasp code 3/69 points to production during the third quarter of 1969. It comes with our Steel Warranty Card.

More than sixty years on, the 7928 stands as one of the finest expressions of the vintage dive watch: the case and bracelet of the Rolex Submariner, an authentic military history, and that gilt rose which Tudor would never again wear in quite the same way. Tudor collectors and vintage Rolex enthusiasts alike will recognise it at once: this is a rare opportunity.

This Tudor Submariner reference 7928, produced in 1963, is preserved in excellent overall condition.
The satin black dial, entirely original, showcases a closed railway minute track, and all its inscriptions are gold-printed, or “Gilt”. The luminous material on its hour markers is very well preserved and has developed a superb warm, even patina, also found on the rare original gilt hands. In the centre of the dial, depending on the light, small concentric marks can be seen, which in no way detract from the pleasure of wearing it.
The beautiful domed Plexiglas crystal sits over the dial and adds to the vintage charm of the piece.
The steel case has remained very strong, with wide, well-defined chamfers on the lugs, and well-preserved “Pointed Crown Guards”.
The black bezel insert has faded to a beautiful anthracite grey over the decades, and retains its luminous pearl at 12 o’clock.
The steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with riveted links, reference 7206, end links 58, clasp code 3/69 (produced during the 3rd quarter of 1969) is in excellent condition, with no excessive “stretch” or slack.
The self-winding mechanical movement, Tudor caliber 390 based on the Fleurier 390, has undergone a complete overhaul by one of our experienced watchmakers and runs within the strictest tolerances.
An excellent example, as much for its rare and desirable configuration as for its state of preservation, which will appeal to discerning collectors.

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