Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date was the first wristwatch to display the day of the week in full and the date in dedicated windows. It was offered exclusively in precious metals and came with a unique three-part, semi-circular link band: the President bracelet. Worn notably by American presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson, and Nixon, it quickly acquired the nickname "the president's watch" and became an international symbol of success and power.
Reference 18238, in 18-carat yellow gold, produced from 1988 to 2000, represents the fifth generation of this flagship model and marks a significant milestone in the evolution of the Day-Date. It introduced the "Double Quickset" function thanks to the new caliber 3155: for the first time, the day and date could be set independently and quickly via the crown, without having to rotate the hands through full 24-hour cycles. This reference is also the last Day-Date to retain the brushed finish on the top of the lugs – an aesthetic detail prized by connoisseurs, abandoned on subsequent generations in favor of fully mirror-polished surfaces.
The example we are pleased to offer, produced and sold in 1989, is remarkable in several respects. First, its dial. Originally sunburst blue – one of the most iconic colors in the Day-Date catalog – it has naturally evolved over the decades into a striking pale purple/lavender hue, uniform across the entire surface. This phenomenon, sometimes referred to by collectors as "tropicalization," results from a gradual transformation of the pigments under the effects of time and exposure to light. On blue Rolex dials of this era, this chromatic shift is relatively rare, and particularly sought after when it develops homogeneously – as is the case here. Depending on the angle and intensity of the light, the dial plays between shades of residual blue and delicate violet, offering a constantly changing spectacle that reveals something new with every glance. The applied gold baton hour markers and the closed "railroad" minute track with Roman numerals at 5-minute intervals complete an elegant design. The "T SWISS MADE T" inscription at 6 o'clock indicates the presence of luminescent material (tritium-based) on the hands and hour markers.
The 36mm 18k yellow gold case is in superb overall condition. The original finishes are preserved, alternating between matte brushed/satin and mirror-polished surfaces, with clear demarcations between the two. The fluted yellow gold bezel has crisp, well-defined edges. The yellow gold President bracelet, reference 8385, with the invisible Rolex Crownclasp, is very well preserved with minimal stretch – an increasingly rare feature on Day-Dates over 35 years old. The bracelet clasp bears the "Sté R" hallmark for Société Rolex (France), confirming the French origin of the piece.
The set accompanying this Day-Date is remarkable. The original Rolex "punched" warranty document indicates an initial sale on November 24, 1989, at Dubail, the historic official Rolex retailer located at 12 Boulevard des Capucines in Paris – the address where Dubail began its partnership with Rolex in 1984, before expanding to Place Vendôme and then the Champs-Élysées. The country code 110, also perforated on the warranty, confirms that the watch was meant to be sold in France. Further evidence of its provenance is a service estimate prepared by Rolex France headquarters in 1993, demonstrating meticulous maintenance from the very beginning. A beautiful Rolex Day-Date presentation box in chocolate grained leather with a wooden interior completes the set.
The calibre 3155 – a self-winding mechanical movement with 31 jewels, COSC-certified as a chronometer, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 48-hour power reserve – has undergone a complete overhaul by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates within the strictest tolerances.
This Day-Date ref. 18238 combines a number of rarely found elements: a dial that has turned purple with remarkable chromatic uniformity, a well-preserved case, a President bracelet with an invisible clasp in excellent condition, and a full set including a Parisian warranty, Rolex France service estimate, and period-correct box in new condition. For the discerning collector, this is a rare opportunity to acquire a neo-vintage Day-Date with a unique character.
