Rare 1965 Lip Nautic Automatic Super-Compressor Ref. 153-093 – Perfect condition

This 1965 Lip Nautic Automatic predates the famous Nautic-Ski and was born at the height of the Besançon-based manufacturer's success. Produced in small series between 1964 and 1966, before the introduction of the R148 electronic movement, this automatic version is today considerably rarer than its successors. The Super-Compressor EPSA case, with its two characteristic crowns and internal rotating bezel, guaranteed a water resistance of 200 meters, a remarkable performance for the time.
The condition of this example is exceptional. The black lacquered/glossy dial features its "Explorer" indexes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock, whose luminescent material has developed a superb, perfectly uniform orange patina, giving the watch an unmistakable vintage charm. The automatic caliber R153, based on the architecture of the German PUW 1261 with 25 jewels, testifies to Lip's expertise at its peak, when the brand was the 8th largest watchmaking power in the world.
The black Tropic-style strap, with its characteristic 1960s waffle pattern, perfectly complements this configuration. For the discerning enthusiast, this Nautic represents a rare opportunity to acquire a remarkably well-preserved example of the golden age of French watchmaking, just before the technological revolution initiated by Fred Lip with the Nautic-Ski transformed the manufacturer's identity.

Founded in 1867 by Emmanuel Lipmann in Besançon, the Lip factory represented the excellence of French watchmaking for over a century. Under the visionary leadership of Fred Lip from 1945, the company became the world's 8th largest watchmaking power in the 1960s, rivaling the great Swiss brands. It was in this context of industrial apogee that Lip Nautic was born, a little-known precursor to the famous Nautic-Ski, which would bring fame to the brand from 1967.

This Nautic Automatic belongs to a small series produced between 1964 and 1966, before the introduction of the R148 electronic movement that would power the Nautic-Ski. These automatic models, simply stamped "Nautic," are considerably rarer today than their electronic successors. They represent the transition between traditional mechanical diving watches and the technological innovation that would characterize Lip in the second half of the 1960s.

The R153 caliber that powers this piece, based on the robust architecture of the German PUW 1261, beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour and boasts a comfortable power reserve of approximately 40 hours. This same caliber equipped other prestigious models of the brand, notably the Dauphine Automatic.

The Super-Compressor case, manufactured by the legendary Swiss company EPSA (Ervin Piquerez SA), represents the pinnacle of waterproofing technology in the 1960s. Patents 317957 and 337462 engraved on the caseback attest to the ingenuity of this system, which achieved a water resistance of 200 meters without screw-down crowns. The distinctive double crown, with its crossed knurling, allows the time and date to be set, and the internal graduated bezel to rotate. This same technology was used in diving watches from some of the most prestigious manufacturers of the time, from IWC to Longines to Blancpain.

The example we have here is striking for its exceptional condition. The black lacquered/glossy dial has a perfectly preserved surface, with no trace of discoloration or moisture. The "Explorer" type indexes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock, characteristic of this Nautic series and different from the indexes of future Nautic-Ski watches, have developed a superb and extremely uniform cream/orange patina. This warm hue, acquired naturally over six decades, gives the watch an incomparable vintage charm. The arrow hands, also uniformly patinated, retain their legibility while testifying to the overall authenticity.

The black Tropic-style strap, with its distinctive embossed pattern, complements it favorably. These vulcanized rubber straps, for those produced by the Tropic brand in the 1960s, have become collector's items in their own right.

This Lip Nautic Automatic is more than just a French diver's watch from the 1960s. It embodies the golden age of the Besançon-based manufacturer, a period when Lip could compete with the greatest names in global watchmaking. For the discerning collector, it is a rare and desirable piece, a testament to a time when French watchmaking still shone in all its glory, just before the quartz revolution disrupted the established order.

This Lip Nautic Automatic is preserved in superb overall condition.
The glossy/lacquered black dial is perfect, without any scratches or stains. The luminescent material of its markers and hands has developed an impressive orange patina, warm and extremely uniform.
The so-called "Super Compressor" steel case is remarkably well preserved, most likely never polished, and retains its original angles and finishes, with a defined alternation between brushed/matte satin and glossy/mirror polished surfaces. The engravings on the outside of the caseback are perfectly sharp, as are those on the inside.
The self-winding mechanical movement, Lip caliber R153 based on PUW 1261, has been completely overhauled by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates to the strictest tolerances.
In our opinion, the finest example of Lip Nautic Automatic to appear in many years.

All the watches available on our website have been meticulously inspected by our team of experts to guarantee their authenticity and originality.

All our watches are systematically checked for mechanical function and precision, and undergo a complete overhaul if necessary.

Every watch sold is covered by a two-year warranty.

Find out more about The Amplitude Guarantee.

We ship all watches ordered on our website free of charge worldwide.

Any customs or import duties/taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Amplitude uses several specialized and secure carriers, depending on the destination of each parcel and its contents (Malca Amit, Ferrari, FedEx, etc.).

We are used to shipping watches all over the world, including to Europe, the United States and Asia. Find out more about Shipping & Deliveries at Amplitude.