Superb Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse “Jumbo” Ref. 3738 Sigma – Full Set

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In 1968, Patek Philippe unveiled the Golden Ellipse, inspired by the golden ratio – the first new collection in its own right since the Calatrava of 1932.
The reference 3738/100 “Jumbo,” widely regarded as the most desirable Ellipse to date, houses the famous 22-carat gold micro-rotor caliber 240, an ultra-thin automatic movement only 2.53 mm thick.
This 18-carat yellow gold example is preserved in excellent overall condition. Its sunburst blue “Sigma” dial displays a deep and even radiance, enhanced by solid gold baton hour markers and hands. The hallmarks on the case are exceptionally clear. The original black crocodile strap is complemented by the yellow gold Ellipse pin buckle. The movement, fully serviced, runs perfectly.
We are pleased to present this superb Ellipse, still accompanied by its original “Full Set” including its Patek Philippe Certificate indicating an initial sale on 11 July 1991, in Nuremberg, Germany, its octagonal burgundy presentation box, carrying pouch, label, document holder, and various accessories. A complete set of this caliber for a 3738 has become extremely rare – an exceptional opportunity for the discerning collector.

Detailed description

In 1968, Patek Philippe unveiled the Golden Ellipse, its first new collection since the Calatrava of 1932. The design, inspired by the “golden ratio” – the proportion 1/1.6181 that Greek mathematicians considered the very expression of harmony – broke radically with the watchmaking conventions of the time. Neither round nor rectangular, the watch’s elliptical shape immediately established it as an icon of understated luxury, positioning Patek Philippe at the forefront of watch design on the cusp of the quartz crisis.

The first references (3546 and 3548) were hand-wound. In 1977, the introduction of the Caliber 240 – an ultra-thin automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor in 22-carat gold, developed under the direction of Gérard Berret – marked a decisive turning point for the collection. At just 2.53 mm thick, the Cal. 240 beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, has a 48-hour power reserve, and incorporates a Gyromax balance. It was precisely the reference 3738, known as the “Jumbo,” that was chosen to house this new caliber – a combination that, nearly fifty years later, remains unchanged in the collection with the current reference 5738. The Cal. 240 also serves as the basis for the manufacture’s most prestigious complications: perpetual calendar, world time, and celestial chart.

Reference 3738/100 is now widely considered the most desirable in the Ellipse collection. Its proportions of 31 x 35.5 mm – generous for its time, yet perfectly balanced – combine a strong presence on the wrist with exceptional finesse thanks to the Cal. 240 movement. The 18-carat yellow gold case, with its mirror-polished bezel and solid snap-on case back with a vertical satin/brushed finish, exemplifies the mastery of goldwork so dear to the Geneva manufacture.

The example we are pleased to offer is preserved in excellent overall condition and is distinguished by the remarkable completeness of its original components. The sunburst blue “Sigma” dial – the two σ symbols framing the “SWISS” inscription at 6 o’clock certifying, according to the standards of the Swiss APRIOR (Association for the Industrial Promotion of Gold), that the hour markers and hands are solid gold – radiates a deep and even glow from the centre, accentuated by applied gold baton hour markers and exquisitely slender hands. The hallmarks on the case side are exceptionally crisp. The original Patek Philippe black crocodile leather strap is paired with the yellow gold Ellipse pin buckle, which echoes the lines of the case and completes the overall harmony. The self-winding mechanical movement has been fully serviced and is in perfect working order.

The watch comes with its Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, attesting to its initial sale on 11 July 1991, at Der Juwelier Lunk in Nuremberg, Germany; its original burgundy presentation box; its rectangular travel pouch; its original label bearing the case and movement numbers; its burgundy document holder; and various period documents and accessories. Such a complete set for a 3738 has become extremely rare – the vast majority of examples on the market are presented without papers, and even rarer are those with all the original accessories.

For the discerning Patek Philippe collector, this Ellipse d’Or/Golden Ellipse reference 3738/100 “Full Set” represents a rare opportunity: the quintessence of design according to the golden ratio, the prestige of the Cal. 240 with micro-rotor, a remarkably preserved blue Sigma dial, and all the original accessories together.

Condition

This Golden Ellipse reference 3738 is preserved in superb overall condition.
The oval 18-carat yellow gold case is in near-mint condition. It features particularly deep and clear hallmarks, and a perfect alternation between mirror-polished and satin/brushed surfaces.
The original dial, in a superb sunburst/radiant blue, is immaculate. Its inscriptions, including the “σ · SWISS · σ” marking (Sigma APRIOR), are perfect.
The original Patek Philippe strap, in black crocodile leather, has been worn, and is complemented by the original Ellipse pin buckle in 18-carat yellow gold.
The complete set of accessories that accompanies this exceptional Patek Philippe, including the Certificate of Origin, is in excellent condition.
The self-winding mechanical movement that powers it, Patek Philippe caliber 240 with micro-rotor, has been fully overhauled by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates within the strictest tolerances.
A reference example, furthermore presented as a Full Set!

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Specifications

General characteristics

Object ID : SZRR
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Golden Ellipse
Reference : 3738/100
Year: Sold in 1991
Gender: Men's watch/Unisex
Delivered with: Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stating an initial sale on 11 July 1991 at Der Juwelier Lunk in Nuremberg, Germany, Original burgundy presentation box, Original burgundy rectangular pouch, Original tag bearing the watch’s case and movement numbers, Original burgundy document holder, Various original documents and accessories
Crystal type:
Sapphire crystal
Dial color:
Blue
Dial markers: No numerals
Year (C24):
1991
Scope of delivery:
Watch with original box and original papers

Case

Case material: Yellow Gold
Case shape:
Other
Case back: Solid, snap-on
Bezel material: Yellow Gold
Dimensions/Diameter: 31 x 35.5 mm

Movement

Type: Automatic
Caliber: Patek Philippe 240
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Functions:

Bracelet/Strap

Bracelet/Strap: Original Patek Philippe black crocodile leather strap and original Patek Philippe Ellipse yellow gold pin buckle
Bracelet/Strap color: Black
Bracelet/Strap material: Crocodile skin
Buckle/Clasp type: Buckle
Buckle/Clasp material: Yellow Gold
Lug width: 20 mm

READ MORE ABOUT THE MODEL

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

The Ellipse is a symbol of luxury and elegance.

Launched in 1968, the Patek Philippe Ellipse d’Or/Golden Ellipse collection is a remarkable fusion of simplicity and sophistication. Inspired by the principles of divine proportion, also known as the golden ratio, this series demonstrates how sleek design can transcend time while retaining timeless elegance and unique aesthetic harmony. The elliptical shape of the watch, which lends its name to the collection, is directly inspired by this ideal mathematical proportion, reputed to represent perfect balance and beauty in nature and the arts. The distinctive Ellipses case, neither completely round nor completely rectangular, offers a refined alternative to traditional watch shapes.

Over the years, the Ellipse collection has undergone many variations – in terms of size, dial colours and complications – but all have retained the integrity of the original design. The dials, in sober tones such as deep blue, black and champagne, are marked by their simplicity, with discreet hour-markers and complemented by pared-down hands that underline the watch’s intrinsic elegance.

The collection not only set a new standard in watch design but also proved Patek Philippe’s ability to innovate without detaching itself from its heritage. Each piece in the Ellipse collection is the result of meticulous craftsmanship, reflecting the brand’s commitment to excellence and understated luxury.

Today, the Ellipse remains one of the brand’s most distinctive collections, admired for its unique design and timeless elegance. It symbolises luxury that never goes out of fashion, and continues to attract collectors and watch lovers who appreciate its finesse and exceptional design. At Watches & Wonders in April 2024, Patek Philippe even announced the reintroduction of an Ellipse model with an integrated bracelet in rose gold.