Superb Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe "Tropical Caramel" in Yellow Gold, Ref. 10234-3, circa 1955

In 1954, Universal Genève commissioned Gérald Genta, then 23 years old, to create a watch for the SAS pilots inaugurating the first transpolar flights. This would be the first major work of the man who would become the most famous watch designer of the 20th century, father of the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and the Ingénieur.
The Polerouter De Luxe is the high-end version of this iconic model: faceted bezel, applied hour markers, 18-karat gold case, and the 138 SS "bumper" caliber. The example we are offering features a dial that has developed a spectacular "tropical" patina—a deep, luminous caramel, beautifully uniform, whose hue changes with the light. The original faceted gold hour markers and dauphine hands harmonize perfectly with this warm tone.
The 36mm case is in excellent condition, with deep hallmarks and the original signed crown. The movement has been serviced by an experienced watchmaker. One of Genta's first masterpieces, in exceptional condition.

In 1954, Universal Genève commissioned a 23-year-old designer to create a watch for the pilots of Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), who were preparing to inaugurate the first transpolar commercial flights between Europe and America. The watch that Gérald Genta designed – the Polarouter, renamed Polerouter in 1957 – had to withstand the intense magnetic fields present above the North Pole. This would be the first major creation of the man who would become the most celebrated watch designer of the 20th century, the father of, among others, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the IWC Ingénieur.

The Polerouter De Luxe represents the high-end version of this iconic model. It is distinguished by its faceted bezel, applied hour markers, and 18-karat gold case. The caliber 138 SS that powers it is an automatic movement known as a "bumper" or "hammer" movement: the oscillating weight does not rotate through 360° but oscillates between two bumpers, transmitting its energy to the mainspring barrel via a system of shocks. This technology, characteristic of the late 1940s and 1950s, gives the watch a unique winding sensation, perceptible on the wrist.

The exceptional example we are offering, reference 10234-3, features a dial that has developed a spectacular patina. Over the decades, the original color has transformed into a deep, luminous, and uniform caramel, its hue shifting with the light. This type of patina, known as "tropical," is highly sought after by collectors today for its unique and irreproducible character – each tropical dial is, in a way, a one-of-a-kind piece, the result of an alchemy between time, light, and the original pigments. The applied faceted gold hour markers and dauphine hands harmonize perfectly with this warm tone.

The 36mm case is preserved in excellent condition. The mirror-polished sides have crisp surfaces, and the hallmarks, as well as the engravings of the reference and serial numbers on the case back, remain very deep and perfectly legible. The crown, bearing Universal Genève's "U," is original and in very good condition. The domed plexiglass crystal has been replaced with a new one and enhances the dial. The self-winding mechanical movement, Universal Genève caliber 138 SS, has been fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker and runs within the strictest tolerances. This Polerouter De Luxe is presented on a new Amplitude° grained calfskin strap and a gold-plated pin buckle.

A Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe in 18-carat gold, featuring a rare and beautiful caramel “tropical” dial: Gérald Genta’s first masterpiece, in an exceptional configuration.

This Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe is preserved in superb overall condition.
The 18-carat gold case, 36mm in diameter, is preserved in excellent condition. The mirror-polished sides have crisp surfaces, and the hallmarks, as well as the engravings of the reference and serial numbers on the case back, remain very deep and perfectly legible.
The crown bearing the "U" of Universal Genève is original, and in very good condition.
The domed plexiglass glass has been replaced with a new one and enhances the dial.
The dial has developed a superb caramel patina. Small chips and losses in the lacquer/paint of the dial are present in some places.
The self-winding mechanical movement, Universal Genève caliber 138 SS, has been fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker and operates within the strictest tolerances.
This Polerouter De Luxe is presented on a new Amplitude° strap in grained calfskin leather and a gold-plated pin buckle.

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