When Rolex launched the Cellini collection in 1968, the Geneva-based manufacturer had a clear objective: to demonstrate that it could compete with the biggest names in the ultra-thin dress watch segment, and above all, under the leadership of its marketing director René-Paul Jeanneret, to create the narrative of the “Rolex collector,” encouraging the brand’s customers to own several watches for several uses and occasions: professional watches (Submariner, GMT-Master, etc.) for sporting activities and with an “aspirational” perspective—and now the Cellini, for more formal occasions. Named after Benvenuto Cellini, the Italian Renaissance goldsmith and sculptor considered one of the greatest artists of his time, this line represents the antithesis of the Oyster models that made the brand’s reputation. Gone are the extreme water resistance and rock-solid robustness—in come ambitious designs executed exclusively in precious metals, with stripped-down elegance and finesse.
The reference 4014 that we are pleased to offer, produced in 1976 (serial number 4250xxx), perfectly embodies this new dynamic. With its rectangular case measuring 23 mm x 30 mm and 5.5 mm thick, it slips discreetly under a shirt cuff. The concealed lugs, in watchmaking jargon, harmoniously extend the lines of the case.
The 18-carat white gold chosen for this example is worthy of special attention. At a time when yellow gold largely dominated Cellini production – around 80 to 90% according to sources – white gold represented a deliberately discreet, almost confidential choice. Collectors of the time who opted for this configuration were seeking absolute understatement: luxury without ostentation, quality without demonstration. The case, produced for Rolex by the illustrious workshop of Jean-Pierre Ecoffey (formerly Georges Croisier), as evidenced by the presence of the “Geneva Key no. 5” hallmark inside the case back, retains its original brushed finishes in remarkable condition, having never been polished since this watch was born, 50 years ago.
The vertically brushed silver dial is one of the most distinctive elements of this model. This finish creates a subtle play of light that enlivens the surface without becoming overly flamboyant. The thin, applied white gold baton indexes mark the hours with a geometric simplicity. The cursive "Cellini" signature at 6 o'clock contributes to the intimate character of this piece.
The Rolex caliber 1600, introduced in 1964, was developed specifically for the Cellini line. Unlike the automatic movements that powered the sports models, this hand-wound caliber, just 2.55 mm thick, achieved the desired slimness. With its 19 jewels, a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, and four-position adjustment, it offers Rolex's customary high precision combined with a power reserve of approximately 46 hours.
This Cellini 4014 transcends its status as a simple dress watch to become a testament to an era when Rolex was exploring different watchmaking territories. The 1970s marked a pivotal period when the manufacturer, while consolidating its dominance in the sports segment with models that have become iconic, was simultaneously attempting to attract a more traditional clientele with elegant pieces.
The example we are offering, fully serviced by one of our watchmakers specializing in vintage calibers, operates according to the strictest tolerances. It is presented on a brand new Amplitude° Made in France strap in shiny black alligator leather that was custom-made for it, accompanied by a Rolex steel pin buckle.
In our view, this Cellini represents a superb opportunity to acquire one of the purest expressions of Rolex expertise in the field of dress watchmaking. A piece preserved in perfect condition and fully serviced, it will appeal to collectors seeking originality and discretion in a market dominated by sports models.
