The world of watchmaking has never been the same since Rolex launched the first Submariner in 1953. It is now considered a benchmark for all types of collectible watches and has since served as inspiration for countless other sports models, or "tool watches." The Rolex Submariner, one of the most iconic and desirable watches of all time, has been worn by countless personalities – from the worlds of diving, the arts, science, business, and politics. To name just a few: Sean Connery in Dr. No, Steve McQueen, Robert Redford, Alain Delon, Jacques Cousteau, Eric Clapton, Rafael Nadal, and even Che Guevara!
At Amplitude°, we are fascinated by the Rolex Submariner. Among the entire production, one vintage reference captures our attention: the 5513. Rolex produced the 5513 from 1962 to 1989. During these 27 years of manufacture, numerous dial designs were introduced. They are traditionally divided into three main categories: gilt dials (gold lettering on a black lacquered background), matte dials, and finally, glossy dials with white gold-rimmed hour markers, which appeared at the end of the production. Among the matte dials, the collector community has identified nine variations. The very first, and for many the most desirable, is the one we are pleased to present: the "Meters First" dial, which appeared in 1966 and was seen until 1969-1970.
This dial differs from all subsequent Submariner dials in that the maximum depth rating of the watch is inscribed on the dial as "200m = 660ft," meaning the meters are listed first. Starting with the next dial design, during a period of increasing importance of its sales in the American market, Rolex switched to listing the depth rating in feet first.
Between approximately 1966 and 1968, this Meters First dial features an additional characteristic: a specificity regarding the luminescent material on its hour markers and three hands. Indeed, during this period, Rolex experimented with luminous components on matte dials, seeking the right balance after discontinuing the use of radium. This was the era of zinc sulfide dials, sometimes also nicknamed "Glowie Tritium" by the collecting coommunity. Our example, produced in 1966 (serial number 1519xxx and case back marked III.66, indicating production during the third quarter of 1966), displays a "puffy" luminescent material that has developed a beautiful vanilla patina with a slight greenish tint – absolutely typical of zinc sulfide dials, now highly sought after by collectors for their rarity.
This "Meters First, Zinc Sulfide" dial, signed "SWISS – T < 25" at 6 o'clock and whose luminous indices light up brightly when illuminated by a UV-A lamp and quickly go out afterwards, gives a particularly balanced look to this 5513, and contributes to this general feeling of timeless "purity": only 2 lines of text at 6 o'clock, no date window, a characteristic domed plexi crystal, a robust case and a highly reliable automatic movement.
Furthermore, its case is remarkably well-preserved, with defined chamfers, and the original Twinlock winding crown is still present, almost 60 years after the watch left the Rolex factory. The original bezel insert is superb. Its inscriptions are particularly bold, giving it a sought-after vintage and substantial look, and the initially black surface has developed an anthracite patina that perfectly complements the dial. The Oyster bracelet with stainless steel folded links, reference 9315 with 280 end pieces, suits it perfectly and features another unique detail: its diving extension is engraved "PATETED" rather than "PATENTED," a manufacturing error that collectors now cherish. In great overall condition, comparable models have become difficult to find. This watch exudes a special warmth and presence on the wrist. It embodies the DNA of professional Rolex watches better than any other. Fully serviced by an experienced watchmaker, this Submariner 5513 Meters First Zinc Sulfide is an opportunity for all enthusiasts.
