1970s Cartier Ceinture LM ref. 78099 “Paris Dial” – Large Model

The Ceinture is a true gem among Cartier watches from the 1970s, which are highly sought after today.
Introduced in 1927 and relaunched in 1973 as part of the Louis Cartier collection, this amazing model is characterized by its octagonal 18-carat yellow gold case with an integrated crown.
Suitable for both men's and women's wrists, this Cartier Ceinture reference 78099 features an original ivory-white dial signed "PARIS" and a recently serviced hand-wound mechanical movement as well as its original yellow gold folding clasp mounted on a very beautiful vintage Cartier – Made in France strap in brown-burgundy alligator leather.
Preserved in excellent overall condition, our watch presents all the characteristics enthusiasts can wish for, and, as an embodiment of Cartier's elegance, it is today the finest example available on the market.

The Cartier Ceinture is a relatively little-known but fascinating watch that is a testament to the innovative spirit and design prowess of the French jeweler and watchmaker. First introduced in 1927 and relaunched in 1973 as one of the 12 pieces composing the Louis Cartier Collection, the Ceinture represents a unique interpretation of Cartier’s unique stylistic identity and has never been reproduced since, making it a sought-after watch typical of the 1970s.

The distinctive feature of the Ceinture is its octagonal case, reminiscent of a belt buckle and from which the watch takes its name (as Ceinture is French for belt). This unusual shape is achieved by cutting off the corners of a square, resulting in a watch that sits more prominently on the wrist than its dimensions would suggest. The case design is further enhanced by a stepped bezel, which adds depth and visual interest to the piece.

When Cartier reintroduced the Ceinture in the early 1970s, two sizes were initially offered: 25mm and 27mm, while an automatic variant, called the 31mm “Jumbo,” would later be produced. The 27mm version is particularly charming with its dimensions comparable to a vintage Tank Louis from the same era, and is perfectly suited to both men’s and women’s wrists.

The Ceinture dial exemplifies Cartier’s signature aesthetic, with a white background adorned with black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track, and blued steel sword hands. This classic design ensures readability and reflects the brand’s timeless elegance. The dial of this watch is signed “PARIS” – a feature that is particularly appreciated and sought after by collectors.

One of the most striking elements of the Ceinture is the design of its crown. Cartier did not use its iconic cabochon but a clean-cut octagonal crown, which fits into a cutout inside the bezel. This feature, which Cartier called at the time the “un-losable winding crown,” integrates seamlessly into the case and allows for perfect symmetry.

The Ceinture holds a special place in Cartier’s history, demonstrating the brand’s ability to create varied and interesting watches while maintaining a strong and consistent stylistic identity. The watch’s unique shape and construction are a testament to the French maison's creativity and willingness to push the boundaries of watch design, making it a highly sought-after piece among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

Our example is equipped with a hand-wound movement (Cartier caliber 78-1) recently serviced by an experienced watchmaker and functioning perfectly. It has retained its original 18-carat yellow gold folding clasp, mounted on a very beautiful vintage Cartier strap – Made in France in brown-burgundy alligator leather. Preserved in excellent overall condition, our watch presents all the characteristics enthusiasts can wish for, and, as an embodiment of Cartier's elegance, it is today the finest example available on the market.

Excellent overall condition.
The shaped case is very well preserved and retains clean angles. All engravings and hallmarks are clean, the serial number is perfectly legible. Minor scratches from use are visible throughout the case.
The original crown is in excellent condition.
The original "PARIS" white dial has no cracks.
The brown alligator strap is signed Cartier.
The folding clasp opens and closes perfectly, and all of its markings are crisp.

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