1974 Rolex Datejust 1601 “Champagne Wide Boy Sigma” in Steel and Gold

This Rolex Datejust reference 1601, in steel with a fluted yellow gold bezel, was produced in 1974 (serial number 359xxxx). Its superb champagne-coloured dial is called the “Wide Boy” because it features distinctive, very wide hour markers alternating between matte and shiny surfaces, as well as matching hands. The “Sigma” qualifier is also relevant because of the presence of “σ” (Sigma) symbols on either side of the “T SWISS T” inscription at 6 o’clock, which denotes the use of solid gold for both the hour markers and the hands. This variant of the Wide Boy Sigma dial + handset duo is rare and sought after by collectors, especially since the dots of luminescent material at the tips of the hour markers and on the hands (tritium base) are perfectly preserved and have developed a superb, uniform eggshell patina.
This piece is part of the Datejust 160x series, celebrated and appreciated for their so-called “pie-pan” dials, giving them an unparalleled vintage charm.
In very good overall condition and recently serviced by a qualified watchmaker, this Datejust reference 1601 is an excellent vintage collector's watch, while also being perfectly usable on a daily basis due to its build quality and the reliability of its automatic movement.

Vintage watch enthusiasts will sometimes notice the presence of the “σ” (Sigma) symbol on the dial of watches from prestigious brands, such as Rolex. Introduced in the early 1970s, this symbol was printed to indicate that visible elements, such as hour markers and sometimes hands, were made of gold.

This initiative was encouraged by the Swiss Association for the Industrial Promotion of Gold (APRIOR in French) with the aim of promoting Swiss watches in the face of international competition and highlighting the superior quality of the components used. The use of gold not only increases the intrinsic value of the watch (the price of gold having almost quadrupled between 1970 and 1974), but also enhances its aesthetic with a distinct shine and refined finish.

The presence of the Sigma letter is mainly observed near the words “T SWISS T” at the bottom of the dial. Since all the dials equipped with precious metal decorations do not bear this sign, its presence makes the models boasting it particularly attractive to collectors.

This feature, in addition to being an indicator of quality and luxury, also serves as a point of historical interest, illustrating a time when the Swiss watch industry sought to stand out through the unparalleled quality of its products.

The movement that powers this Datejust, mechanical with automatic winding, Rolex caliber 1570, has recently undergone a complete overhaul by a watchmaker specializing in vintage models, and operates within the strictest tolerances.

This wonderful Datejust is presented in excellent condition.
The well-preserved case features wide lugs, with sharp demarcations between the satin-finished and mirror-polished surfaces as when this watch was born in 1974. The fluted yellow gold bezel is superbly defined, with sharp striations and brilliant facets – we believe the latter has never been polished.
The champagne "Wide Boy Sigma" dial is remarkable, and shows no significant stains, discoloration or scratches. The date disc is original.
The custom-made Amplitude° strap in gold-colored pigskin leather is new, and the gold-plated Rolex pin buckle is preserved in very good condition.
The self-winding mechanical movement, having undergone a complete overhaul by one of our qualified watchmakers accustomed to vintage Rolex calibers, operates to the strictest tolerances. During this service, the plexiglass crystal, the barrel spring and all the gaskets were replaced with new ones.
In short, a rare and magnificent Datejust variant, 50 years old and yet perfectly preserved both aesthetically and mechanically!

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