Cartier Panthère “Medium 2 Rows”, Ref. 110000R, in Yellow Gold & Steel, circa 1995

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This Cartier Panthère reference 110000R in its two-tone configuration was produced during the 1990s. The so-called "Medium" size case – today the most sought-after size, in-between the Lady (22 mm) and Jumbo (29 mm) variants – combines steel with yellow gold for the bezel with eight visible screws, a signature of the model inherited from the first Santos.
The ivory dial features the timeless Cartier design: black Roman numerals, a square railway track, blued sword hands, and a date at 4 o'clock. The five-row bracelet—two central rows in mirror-polished gold, framed in steel—constitutes the DNA of the Panthère, with its characteristic suppleness evoking the feline movements that inspired its name.
The Cartier 687 quartz caliber is precise and reliable, a deliberate technical choice made in 1983 to maintain an ultra-thin profile. The example we offer is perfectly preserved, with a clean dial, a tight bracelet, and crisp engravings.
Disappeared from catalogs in 2004 before its reintroduction in 2017, this configuration of the Panthère de Cartier, equally suited to women's and men's wrists, is particularly prized for its perfect balance between the brilliance of gold and the discretion of steel.

Detailed description

The Cartier Panthère watch collection was launched in 1983. The two-tone reference 110000R, now so-called the "Medium" size, was produced during the 1990s, and represents Cartier's characteristic interpretation of a watch that is both practical and ornamental, designed to appeal to an urban and sophisticated clientele.

The square case with rounded corners measures 27 mm on each side – the intermediate size in the Panthère nomenclature, positioned between the so-called “Lady” (22 mm) and “Jumbo” (29 mm) sizes. It is today the most sought-after version. This two-tone construction combines steel for the case back and structural parts with 18-carat yellow gold for the bezel with eight visible screws. This screw-down bezel, the model’s visual signature, adopts the aesthetic codes established by the first Santos models at the very beginning of the 20th century, while asserting its own identity.

The ivory dial features classic Cartier architecture: black Roman numerals, a square minute track, and blued sword-shaped hands. The date window at 4 o'clock demonstrates the desire to offer a practical everyday watch. The secret Cartier signature, hidden in the X at 10 o'clock, and the crown adorned with a blue cabochon complete this instantly recognizable design.

The five-row link bracelet is the Panthère's most distinctive element. This articulated structure, with its two central rows of yellow gold framed by steel, effectively evokes the feline suppleness that gives the collection its name. Each mirror-polished link contributes to this characteristic fluid movement, transforming the watch into a wrist jewel. The hidden folding clasp, signed Cartier, ensures optimal security while preserving the visual continuity of the bracelet.

The quartz movement, Cartier caliber 687 based on an ETA ébauche, is in keeping with the logic of the time. In 1983, when the Panthère was launched, the choice of quartz was deliberate: absolute reliability, ideal chronometric precision, and an ultra-thin profile that preserved the elegance of the case. Far from being a compromise, this technical choice contributed to the model's deliberate modernity.

The example we offer is remarkably well preserved. The case retains its clean lines, the gold bezel its original luster, and the bracelet its characteristic flexibility, without sagging. The engravings on the caseback remain perfectly legible.

Disappeared from catalogs in 2004 before its reintroduction in 2017 in a women's-only version, this original configuration of the Panthère de Cartier is particularly sought after. This two-tone reference 110000R, with its balance between the brilliance of gold and the discretion of steel, perfectly embodies the spirit of the 1990s, when luxury was meant to be both visible and wearable on a daily basis.

Condition

This Cartier Panthère is presented in excellent overall condition.
The model's characteristic bracelet is very well preserved, with a clear alternation between the steel links, brushed/matte satin-finished, and those in yellow gold, mirror-polished/shiny. The same is true for the case and the bezel. The case back has legible engravings, notably the reference and serial numbers. The double-folding clasp opens and closes without difficulty.
The original white/ivory dial is in very good condition, with no missing parts to the black painted Roman numeral indexes or minute track. The case back has developed a light beige patina, typical of this Cartier series – and contributes to the watch's neo-vintage charm.
The quartz movement has been replaced to ensure it will function perfectly for many years, and the battery is also new.

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Specifications

General characteristics

Object ID : P8EY
Brand: Cartier
Model: Panthère
Reference : 110000R
Year: Circa 1995
Gender: Men's watch / Unisex
Delivered with: Cartier soft pouch in red suede, Amplitude° Steel Warranty Card
Crystal type:
Sapphire crystal
Dial color:
Silver
Dial markers: Roman numerals

Case

Case material: Gold/Steel
Case shape:
Square
Case back: Full, screw-back
Bezel material: Yellow Gold
Dimensions/Diameter: 27 x 36 mm

Movement

Type: Quartz
Caliber: Cartier 687 Quartz on ETA base
Frequency: N / A
Functions: Date

Bracelet/Strap

Bracelet/Strap: Original Cartier Panthère bracelet in steel and 3 rows in 18-carat yellow gold
Bracelet/Strap color: Gold/Steel
Bracelet/Strap material: Gold/Steel
Buckle/Clasp type: Double-fold clasp
Buckle/Clasp material: Stainless Steel
Lug width: 16mm