Elegant 2005-2006 Patek Philippe Calatrava in Yellow Gold, Ref. 5196J – Perfect Condition

In 1932, the Stern brothers acquired Patek Philippe and launched the reference 96: a clean, Bauhaus-inspired design that immediately became the benchmark for dress watches, for all manufacturers. The Calatrava was born. In 2004, the reference 5196 faithfully reproduced these design elements – a clean case, a flat, mirror-polished bezel, dauphine hands, faceted hour markers, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock – in a contemporary 37 mm diameter.
This 18-carat yellow gold example, made in 2005 and originally sold in 2006, is preserved in excellent overall condition. The case has impeccable surfaces with sharp demarcations between the satin-finished and polished sides. The silvery opaline dial highlights the applied sword hour markers and the beaded minute track. The hand-wound caliber 215 PS bears the Geneva Seal and, having been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers, is in perfect working order.
Accompanied by its Extract from the Archives, a Patek Philippe travel case and its original Patek Philippe yellow gold pin buckle, this Calatrava reference 5196J perfectly embodies the elegance of the Geneva manufacture.

In 1932, as Patek Philippe was going through a difficult period, brothers Jean and Charles Stern bought the company and decided to launch a more accessible model, one capable of appealing beyond the exclusive circle of major collectors. Their solution: the reference 96, a watch with a clean design inspired by Bauhaus principles, where form follows function. This timepiece of understated elegance, with its 30.5 mm round case, uncluttered dial, and small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, immediately became a classic. The Calatrava – named after the cross that has adorned the brand's emblem since 1887 – was born, and with it, the concept of the elegant wristwatch.

Seventy-two years later, in 2004, Patek Philippe presented the reference 5196. This new Calatrava faithfully reproduces the aesthetic codes of its illustrious predecessor: a clean case with a flat, mirror-polished bezel, dauphine hands, faceted applied hour markers, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. The diameter, however, increased from ~31 to 37 mm, a size more in line with contemporary standards, while retaining the slimness and balanced proportions that made the original 96 so renowned.

The 215 PS caliber that powers the 5196 also perpetuates this spirit. This hand-wound mechanical movement, equipped with 18 jewels, features a five-bridge architecture reminiscent of the 12-400 caliber of the 96 and bears the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to a very high level of both chronometric precision and aesthetic finish.

The example we are offering, manufactured in 2005 and first sold on April 29, 2006 according to its Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, is in excellent overall condition. The 37 mm 18-karat yellow gold case boasts impeccable surfaces: brushed/satin-finished matte sides, mirror-polished bezel and lugs, with crisp demarcations between the different textures. The subtly luminous silver opaline dial highlights the applied yellow gold sword hour markers and the elegant matching dauphine hands. The small seconds at 6 o'clock and the beaded minute track add two further touches of sophistication, again in keeping with Patek Philippe's signature designs.

This Calatrava comes with a recent Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, and a Patek Philippe leather travel case with its outer box. The 18-carat yellow gold pin buckle signed Patek Philippe is original; the bespoke brown-burgundy alligator strap is new, supplied by Amplitude°.

Reference 5196 embodies the very essence of the dress watch: pure lines, understated elegance, and impeccable craftsmanship. It is for those who seek elegance rather than ostentation, refinement rather than complication. A watch to transcend decades with the same timeless grace as its 1932 predecessor.

This elegant Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5196 is preserved in superb overall condition, close to new.
The case is perfectly preserved, with clear demarcations between the brushed/satin matte and mirror-polished/glossy surfaces.
The silver-opaline dial is flawless.
The bespoke Amplitude° bracelet in brown-burgundy alligator leather is new, and the original Patek Philippe yellow gold pin buckle is in perfect condition.
The hand-wound mechanical movement, Patek Philippe calibre 215 PS, has been fully serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates within the strictest tolerances.
A great exeample!

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