Exceptional 1st generation Breguet Type 20 military chronograph 5101/54, “Glossy Gilt”/Lacquered dial, delivered to the Air Ministry in 1956

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We are very pleased to present this superb and legendary 1st generation military Breguet “Type 20” pilot chronograph, delivered to the French Air Ministry on June 1, 1956.
Designed according to rigorous specifications, this watch was intended for pilots of the Air Force, Naval Aviation and the Brétigny-sur-Orge Flight Test Center.
Its remarkably well-preserved 38.5 mm steel case features finishes that alternate between satin and polished surfaces, with horns with prominent chamfers. It is equipped with a fluted rotating bezel and a domed plexiglass crystal with a typically vintage charm. Its oversized crown, known as a "pear", was designed for easy handling even in flight with pilot gloves.
Its original dial, called "sterile" (without Breguet signature) with 2 counters, conforming to military specifications, is presented here in a very rare lacquered version ("glossy"), in a deep black. Over time, the whole has developed a magnificent homogeneous patina.
On the mechanical side, this watch is powered by a Valjoux 222 caliber modified by Breguet, a column-wheel chronograph with a flyback function, allowing the chronograph to be restarted instantly with a single press – a strategic asset for pilots on a mission.
The dodecagonal screwed case back is marked with the public order number 5101/54, the individual serial number, as well as the inscriptions “FG” (End of Warranty) testifying to military revisions, the last dating from February 1983 – proof of almost 30 years of active service.
Our example, among the rare survivors of the military destruction to which these tool watches were destined at the end of their use in the field, is accompanied by an official Breguet Archive Extract confirming its delivery in 1956.
The Breguet Type 20, a true "tool watch" at the heart of the history of French military aviation, is undeniably one of the most sought-after chronographs among collectors. Its unique and balanced design and its reliable movement make it a watch that is perfectly wearable on a daily basis, 70 years after its birth. Our example, one of the rare "survivors" of the destruction planned by military regulations, belongs to the 1st generation of Type 20, has an extremely rare lacquered dial, has remained in superb aesthetic condition, and has been completely overhauled by an experienced watchmaker. An exceptional opportunity for discerning collectors.
We have written a more detailed description of this exceptional watch – see below.

Detailed description

We are pleased to present this superb and legendary 1st generation military Breguet “Type 20” pilot chronograph, delivered to the French Air Ministry (the Air Force) on June 1, 1956.

In the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defense took into consideration the observations of its aviators, notably formulated during the Second World War. German military pilots, equipped with chronographs with a "flyback" function, had a significant advantage over their Allied adversaries, as these instruments allowed them to save time and improve precision when handling their tool watch in flight. Indeed, standard chronographs required 3 operations to be restarted while they were already running: press the chronograph stop button (1), press the reset button (2), and finally, press the button at 2 o'clock again to restart the chronograph (3). This tedious process distracted the pilots and potentially caused them to make errors in calculating position and trajectory. The Germans could stop, reset, and restart their chronograph with a single press of the button at 4 o'clock - thus saving precious time.

Thus, in the early 1950s, the French State expressed its desire to acquire, for various military institutions, approximately 2,500 watches meeting precise specifications, based on the military chronographs produced in Germany during the Second World War and used by Luftwaffe pilots. The first order, which bears the order number 5101/54 (for 1954) requires in particular manufacturers capable of responding to the call for tenders:
• the “flyback” function;
• an accuracy tolerating a maximum of ± 8 seconds of daily variation;
• a case of approximately 38 mm;
• luminescent hands and black dial;
• a mechanical movement with a power reserve of at least 35 hours;
• and the ability of the watches to operate without difficulty after 300 starts and stops of the chronograph function.

Auricoste, Dodane (Airain) and Vixa were among the companies that won the Ministry’s tender — along with Breguet. The Type 20 chronographs were primarily intended for pilots and flight personnel of the French Air Force, the Naval Air Force, and the Brétigny-sur-Orge Flight Test Center. After each service, the case backs were marked with the letters “FG” (for “End of Warranty”) followed by the date of the next scheduled service. Recent research by enthusiasts of the model indicates that the army’s procedures required that watches at the end of their career be destroyed by immersing them in a can of acid. As a result, only a small number of Type 20s in good condition have survived, almost 70 years after the model was first delivered. On the Breguet website, we read: "[The watches] are the property of the French State, which ensures their maintenance until their retirement, and are only given to aviators personally in exceptional circumstances." The success of the Breguet Type 20, a sort of symbol of the aviator's watch, will encourage the brand to respond to the demand of enthusiasts by producing civilian versions of this legendary chronograph: these are the watches in the "Type XX" collection.

The round steel case of our example, with a diameter of 38.5 mm, is recognizable among thousands and very comfortable to wear. Remarkably preserved, it retains its original proportions and finishes, alternating between matte brushed/satin surfaces and others mirror polished, with protruding "chamfers" at the end of the horns. It has a fluted rotating steel bezel, not graduated, and is topped with a typically "vintage" domed plexiglass crystal.

The Type 20 military winding crown is special. Oversized, it is nicknamed "pear" because of its shape, and was intended to allow pilots to use it with their thick gloves, even in flight.

The very well-preserved dodecagonal screwed case back bears the name Breguet, the model (Type 20), the number of the public order that gave birth to this watch (5101/54), its individual serial number (76xx), the mark of the watchmaking workshop approved by the army to maintain it (A), as well as 11 “FG” strikes for “End of Warranty” – markings made by the watchmakers at the end of each revision – the last of which is dated February 1983, meaning that this example was used “in the field” by French aviators for around thirty years from its entry into service in 1956!

The dial of this chronograph is called "sterile", in that it does not bear the name Breguet. It thus corresponds perfectly to the so-called "first generation" Type 20s, military - as opposed to the civilian versions (called Type XX by Breguet) and to certain smaller orders (Centre d'Essais en Vol de Brétigny-sur-Orge, Aéronavale, etc.) whose dials are signed by the brand. Above all, this is an extremely rare version and appreciated by the most enlightened collectors: the dial of our example is shiny, lacquered (also called "Glossy"), and not matte like the vast majority of 5101/54s. Indeed, our research indicates that Breguet, which dubbed the public order for the Type 20s in 1954 “the order of the century,” was, like its usual suppliers, unable to manufacture as many chronographs as ordered without having to call upon a panoply of subcontractors, including dial makers. While the main supplier supplied matte dials, everything seems to indicate that a secondary manufacturer sold lacquered dials, in an incomparably deeper black and with a striking visual effect, as is the case here. The dial of our example has 2 counters: a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock and a second hand indicating the seconds at 9 o’clock, an external seconds graduation with 5-minute indications, and Arabic numeral indexes covered in luminescent material, like the hands. All of this has developed a superb warm and uniform patina, inevitably contributing to the “vintage” and military charm of this French chronograph from the 1950s.

The movement that powers it is a Valjoux 222, a column-wheel chronograph with a flyback function and modified by Breguet at the balance level.

The new Amplitude° bracelet, in black Horween Shell Cordovan leather, was handcrafted and hand-sewn, and comes with a new brushed steel pin buckle.

We warmly thank Mr. Emmanuel Breguet for providing us, based on its unique serial number, with an Archive Extract for this 1st generation Type 20 chronograph that equipped the French Air Force pilots. The Breguet books thus confirm its delivery on June 1, 1956 to the "Air Ministry".

The Breguet Type 20, a true "tool watch" at the heart of the history of French military aviation, is undeniably one of the most sought-after chronographs among collectors. Its unique and balanced design and its reliable movement make it a watch that is perfectly wearable on a daily basis, 70 years after its birth. Our example, one of the rare "survivors" of the destruction planned by military regulations, belongs to the 1st generation of Type 20, has an extremely rare lacquered dial, has remained in superb aesthetic condition, and has been completely overhauled by an experienced watchmaker. A rare opportunity.

Condition

This Breguet Type 20 chronograph in steel is remarkably preserved.
The stainless steel case retains its original angles, proportions and finishes, with alternating brushed/satin surfaces and mirror-polished ones. The “chamfers” at the end of the lugs are respected and contribute to the vintage charm and authenticity of this watch. The original rotating bezel is in remarkable condition. The chronograph pushers, at 2 and 4 o’clock, are original, as is the winding crown nicknamed “pear” by collectors. The very well preserved dodecagonal screwed case back has all the engravings that one would expect from a 1st generation military Type 20: the brand (Breguet), the model (Type 20), the number of the public order that gave birth to this watch (5101/54), its individual serial number (76xx), the mark of the watchmaking workshop approved by the army to maintain it (A), as well as 11 “FG” strikes for “End of Warranty”.
The exceptional black "lacquered" (glossy) dial, rare and original, is of exemplary quality, retaining all of its white inscriptions on the main part as well as inside the 2 guilloché sub-counters. When servicing these watches, it was customary for watchmakers approved by the French army to remake the luminescent material of the indexes and hands so that it would shine perfectly in the field. Similarly, the hands may have been replaced during a routine service, as this watch was on the wrists of military aviators for around thirty years and serviced by army watchmakers at least 10 times!
The movement, mechanical with manual winding, has undergone an advanced restoration by one of our watchmakers specializing in vintage calibers and operates according to the strictest tolerances. The chronograph part also works perfectly.
The handcrafted and hand-stitched Amplitude° strap in black Horween Shell Cordovan leather is new, as is the brushed steel pin buckle.
A copy of remarkable quality.

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Specifications

General characteristics

Object ID : P4P7
Brand: Breguet
Model: Type 20
Reference : 5101/54
Year: Delivered on June 1, 1956
Gender: Men's watch / Unisex
Delivered with: Extract from the original Breguet Archives, Amplitude° Guarantee Card in steel
Crystal type:
Plexiglass
Dial color:
Black
Dial markers: Arabs

Case

Case material: Steel
Case shape:
Round
Case back: Full, screwed
Bezel material: Steel
Dimensions/Diameter: 38.3 mm

Movement

Type: Manual winding
Caliber: Valjoux 222 with flyback function
Frequency: 19,800 vph (2.75 Hz)
Functions: Chronograph

Bracelet/Strap

Bracelet/Strap: New Amplitude° bracelet in black Horween Shell Cordovan leather, handcrafted and hand-sewn, with new brushed steel pin buckle
Bracelet/Strap color: Black
Bracelet/Strap material: Leather
Buckle/Clasp type: Pin buckle
Buckle/Clasp material: Steel
Lug width: 20mm