Extraordinary Vacheron & Constantin Prestige de la France in Yellow Gold & Tiger's Eye Marquetry, Sold in 1976 – Full Set & Unique

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In 1972, Vacheron Constantin received the Diplôme du Prestige de la France – a distinction previously reserved for achievements such as the Caravelle or the ocean liner France. The model created for the occasion, with its asymmetrical case in proportions based on the golden ratio and its ultra-thin caliber 1050, became one of the most iconic of the Geneva-based Maison.
This example, made in 1974, is, to our knowledge, unique. Its tiger’s-eye marquetry dial – described in Vacheron Constantin’s books as "harlequin" – is composed of hand-cut and assembled diamond lozenges, offering a play of gold, amber, and brown reflections that shift with the light. The extraordinary yellow gold folding clasp, also set with a tiger’s-eye insert, completes this exceptional aesthetic.
This watch, already incredible in itself, is also accompanied by its "Full Set": Certificate of Origin and Warranty stating an initial sale in 1976 and original burgundy box, plus an Extract from the Vacheron Constantin Archives confirming the reference, caliber and manufacture in 1974. The mechanical hand-wound movement, caliber Vacheron & Constantin K1050/B, has been serviced by one of our experienced watchmakers, and operates within the strictest tolerances.
An exceptional piece.

Detailed description

On June 23, 1972, at the Ritz in Paris, the Comité National du Prestige de la France presented Vacheron Constantin with the Diplôme du Prestige de la France – a distinction previously reserved for achievements such as the Caravelle aircraft (1958) or the ocean liner France (1963). Vacheron Constantin was the first watch manufacturer to receive this honor, in recognition of a watch with a boldly asymmetrical design, powered by the ultra-thin caliber 1050. To accompany the ceremony, the artist Jean Carzou created a lithograph entitled "Temps qui passe" (Time Passing), printed in a limited edition before the lithographic stone was publicly destroyed.

The Prestige de la France quickly became one of the Geneva-based Maison’s most iconic models. Its asymmetrical, curved case, whose proportions adhere to the golden ratio, broke with the conventions of the time and asserted a resolutely avant-garde vision of dress watchmaking. The model has been offered in several references and variations over the decades, right up to the most recent reissues – proof of the timeless appeal of this design.

The example we are pleased to offer, reference 2087, made in 1974, is, to our knowledge, unique. Its superb tiger’s-eye marquetry dial – described in Vacheron Constantin’s books as "harlequin" – is composed of hand-cut and assembled diamond-shaped stones, forming a geometric pattern of striking visual richness. Tiger’s eye, a semi-precious stone belonging to the quartz family, is known for its chatoyancy: depending on the angle of the light, golden, amber, and brown reflections shift across the surface of each diamond, giving the dial a vibrant and ever-changing character. While the collector community has been able, over the years, to identify a very small number of Prestige de la France watches with stone dials (onyx, lapis lazuli), this configuration in tiger’s eye marquetry with a harlequin pattern is unprecedented – strongly suggesting that our watch is a unique piece!

The asymmetrical 18-carat yellow gold case, with dimensions characteristic of the large Prestige de la France size (approximately 21 x 46 mm and about 7 mm thick), retains its original crown signed with the Maltese cross. The case back bears the emblematic engraving "PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE" framed by a laurel wreath. A few minor chips are present on some of the diamond-shaped stones on the dial, without detracting from the overall visual effect. Beneath the hand-cut crystal, the gold Dauphine hands echo the color of the case.

The extraordinary yellow gold folding clasp is also set with a tiger’s eye insert – a previously unseen feature that perfectly complements the watch’s aesthetic. We offer this exceptional timepiece with two brand-new, bespoke Amplitude° straps: one in black alligator leather and the other in carp leather, echoing the texture and colors of the dial.

The Vacheron Constantin K1050/B calibre, a 20-jewel, hand-wound mechanical movement, is one of Vacheron Constantin’s iconic ultra-thin movements, featuring a variable-inertia balance for precise regulation. It has undergone a complete overhaul by one of our experienced watchmakers and operates to the strictest tolerances.

The documents and accessories accompanying this watch are remarkable. Fifty years after its initial sale, it still retains its "Full Set": the original Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Origin and Warranty, indicating an initial sale on April 15, 1976, and the original Vacheron Constantin burgundy leather case with a velvet lining, complete with the Vacheron Constantin "Worldwide Service" pouch and polishing cloth. Furthermore, we obtained an Extract from the Archives issued by Vacheron Constantin in Geneva, confirming the reference 2087, the caliber 1050 (7 lines), and the date of manufacture in 1974. Finally, the Amplitude° Steel Warranty Card guarantees its future owner the perfect functioning of this watch for two years and its authenticity for life.

For the discerning collector, this Prestige de la France with a harlequin tiger-eye dial represents an exceptional opportunity to acquire what is, to our knowledge, a unique example – combining one of Vacheron Constantin’s most daring designs, a work of decorative art of great rarity, and a fully documented provenance.

Condition

This Vacheron & Constantin “Prestige de la France” is remarkably well preserved, having in all likelihood been kept in the same family since its initial sale on April 15, 1976.
The uniquely designed case has remained in excellent condition. The engravings on the back, including the inscription "PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE" and its laurel wreath, the case number, and the variant number, are perfectly legible.
The original winding crown is preserved, and still features the Maltese Cross, the signature of the Geneva manufacture.
The hand-cut crystal is in good condition, with a few small scratches that do not affect the readability of the dial.
The exceptional original yellow gold folding clasp is very well preserved. All its engravings, markings, and hallmarks are legible, clear, and deep. The tiger’s eye inset is in very good condition and adds incredible charm to the watch.
We offer this model with two new straps, custom-made and handcrafted by an artisan: one is in glossy black alligator leather, and the other, as a nod to the marquetry pattern of the dial, in orange/camel carp leather.
The superb original dial, made of small tiger’s-eye lozenges assembled in marquetry, is astonishing. It displays remarkable chatoyancy. The inscription "VACHERON & CONSTANTIN / GENÈVE" impressed on the stone is fully preserved. Some lozenges show small cracks and scratches.
This "Prestige de la France" is still accompanied, 50 years after its initial sale, by its original Vacheron & Constantin Bordeaux case, as well as its Certificate of Origin and Guarantee stating an initial sale on April 15, 1976. We have also obtained an Extract from the Archives for this exceptional watch.

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Specifications

General characteristics

Object ID : 2YEY
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Prestige de la France
Reference : 628P / 2087
Year: 1976
Gender: Men's watch / Unisex
Delivered with: Original burgundy case, Certificate of Origin and Guarantee stating an initial sale on April 15, 1976, Extract from the Vacheron Constantin Archives (2024) stating a manufacture date of 1974
Crystal type:
Mineral glass
Dial color:
Brown
Dial markers: No numerals
Year (C24):
1976
Scope of delivery:
Watch with original box and original papers

Case

Case material: Yellow Gold
Case shape:
Other
Case back: Solid, snap-on
Bezel material: Yellow Gold
Dimensions/Diameter: 21 × 46 mm

Movement

Type: Manual winding
Caliber: Vacheron Constantin K1050/B
Frequency: 19,800 vph (2.75 Hz)
Functions:

Bracelet/Strap

Bracelet/Strap: Two brand new straps, one in black alligator leather and the other in carp leather, and original 18-carat yellow gold folding clasp, signed Vacheron Constantin, with tiger eye insert
Bracelet/Strap color: Black
Bracelet/Strap material: Leather
Buckle/Clasp type: Fold clasp, hidden
Buckle/Clasp material: Yellow Gold
Lug width: N / A