The Rolex Submariner 5508 occupies a mythical place in the history of diving watches. Produced from 1958 to 1962, this reference is the last in the line of Submariners without crown guards, a design of incredible purity and elegance. Nicknamed the “little James Bond” or “Small Crown” because of its 6 mm diameter crown, the reference 5508 represents an era when Rolex innovated without compromise, at the crossroads of diving instruments and luxury objects.
This piece, made in 1962, is an exceptional example. It is indeed among the very last ones manufactured, equipped – a little-known fact – with a COSC-certified chronometer movement, the Rolex caliber 1560, while the vast majority of 5508s were not recognized as chronometers. Exceptional then for its state of preservation. The elegant thin case retains its original proportions, with very clear demarcations between the brushed and mirror-polished surfaces and sharp chamfers. Above all, it is indeed the dial that distinguishes this watch: lacquered with transparent gold-colored inscriptions, called "glossy gilt", it has not undergone any restoration and remains absolutely perfect – an incredible rarity for a watch over 60 years old. This type of dial, with its gold inscriptions and sunken markings, is one of the most sought-after by collectors. The "Submariner" and "200m = 660ft" lines of text are strikingly clear. Furthermore, the so-called “puffy” luminescent indexes are all preserved, without stains or discoloration, and have developed a superb uniform gold patina, creating a magnificent contrast with the depth of the black lacquer. The dial, Mercedes hands, and luminous pearl on the bezel inlay offer a perfect chromatic consistency, often lost on restored or altered models.
The original insert, known as the “Long 5” variant, is a masterpiece in itself. This type of insert is famous for its elongated numerals, especially the distinctively shaped five, and its refined aesthetic. The luminous pearl in the center of the triangle at 12 o’clock is intact, with a patina matching the dial indexes, a detail that makes all the difference to purists. Beyond its intrinsic rarity, the bezel insert of our Submariner 5508 is, in our view, in 10/10 condition.
The riveted steel Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, a symbol of professional Rolexes of the 1950s and 1960s, has also remained in remarkable condition, with tight, unrestored links and clear engravings. It is connected to the case by ref. 80 end pieces, as it should be. Its folding clasp is marked 1/66, indicating production during the first quarter of 1966.
Inside beats the Rolex 1560 chronometer movement, one of the most reliable and respected calibers in Rolex history. With 18,000 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, this movement offers COSC-certified precision and legendary robustness. Recently serviced by a watchmaker specializing in vintage calibers, this beating heart is ready to accompany its future owner for decades to come.
Our research indicates that this watch, produced in 1962, most likely underwent a full service at Rolex between 1966 and 1967. On this occasion, the dial was replaced by an extremely rare version, called "2 lines" unlike the one that previously equipped it, in all likelihood with 4 lines to reflect the superlative chronometer certification of its movement, the caliber 1560, mounted exclusively on the last production batches of the reference 5508. Marked "SWISS - T < 25" at 6 o'clock, this dial indeed embodies a moment of transitions for the brand: it links the era of lacquered, shiny dials, lit up by radium-based compounds, and the advent of the matte painted dial, with tritium indexes. We photographed the watch under a UV lamp to show the very particular shine of the tritium + zinc sulfide mixture used between 1966 and 1967. We are reinforced in our belief that this watch went through the Rolex workshops as the blade of the riveted Oyster bracelet reads: 1/66, for production during the first quarter of 1966 – matching our other findings.
With its 37 mm case without crown guards and its characteristic thinness, the reference 5508 offers exceptional wearing comfort and an elegant and timeless presence on the wrist. A thousand miles away from modern Submariners, this so-called “little James Bond” is an example of vintage minimalism. Incredibly preserved since its birth over 60 years ago, our example is a model of vintage warmth, with a phenomenal lacquered/gilt dial with superbly patinated luminescent material, a perfect bezel insert, and an excellent case with sharp chamfers. An exceptional piece.
